【翻译转载】挪威高山路四日行

汗血宝熊

HIGH FIVE RIDE

Four days riding the five highest roads in Norway

高路行

挪威五条高山路四日骑行

Story by Joe NewtonFebruary 13th, 2017

乔伊 牛顿 于2017年2月13日

因为译者水平有限，不能很生动的翻译这个标题，high five在这里是双关语，一是只作者骑行的是挪威最高的五条山路，二是指好友之间的默契配合（high five有伙伴击掌之意）

Mikkel first pitched the idea of this trip to me two years ago. A ride across Norway, scaling the five highest roads this country had to offer. Mikkel had discovered that the highest roads lay in a rough line across the country, from Geiranger in the west to Røros in the east. In between we'd ride as much gravel/dirt roads as possible, and sleep under the stars. We had tried to make it work a couple of times but couldn't get our schedules to sync, and when we did, I got sick.

The stars finally aligned in the summer of 2016. You'd think with all that time to nerd out on gear details we'd arrive at the startline with similar set-ups, but I screwed that up. Our bike set-ups were very similar (drop 'bars, low gear ranges and rolling on 47mm rubber), but I hadn't planned on quite how close to the bone Mikkel had trimmed his extras.

While we had definitely decided that stoves wouldn't be required with our frequent proximity to population centres, Mikkel turned up without a tent or a sleeping bag and a far lighter camera arsenal than I'd ever seen him carry before. My basic 'bikepacking' set-up looked positively bloated in comparison. But it wouldn't be until the first climb tomorrow that I would truly appreciate what Mikkel was aiming for.

米克两年前向我推销了这个行程计划--一次性横穿挪威，完刷境内最高的五条山路。米克发现这五条路穿过本国的崎岖地带，从西边的Geiranger到东边的Røros。行程计划尽可能挑选砂石路和土路，外加露营。我们几次欲执行计划，终因空闲时间不能同步或是我突然病倒而未遂。

好日子终于来临。2016年的夏季，经过长时间的细节分析推敲（作者原文是“纸上谈兵”），我们终于带着相似的装备到达起点。我们的单车配置也是相似的（弯把，少速别，700*47的外胎），但是我完全没想到米克的精简工作做的如此的彻底。虽然我们一致认为不需要在野外开火，按照我们的速度节奏，总能在饭点儿经过城镇，但米克连帐篷睡袋都没有带，连相机也是有别于以往的超轻运动型。相较之下，我的“穿越骑行”配置就明显臃肿了。直到第二天的爬升开始后，我才发现米克的想法确有过人之处。

汗血宝熊

I met Mikkel just after midnight, on the side of a dark mountain road. This was as close as we could get on our respective bus journeys from our home cities. We slept behind a rock, not far from a car park and got cracking with the first target, the road down to Geiranger, all the way down to sea level, so we could 'officially' start. Geiranger is a real tourist hub, so we milled around awkwardly, grabbed some snacks and struck out, back up the hill. From Geiranger, up, past the road we descended in the morning, all the way up to Dalsnibba. Sea level to 1500m. 22 serpentine kilometres of tarmac, rising at an average of 10%. Very busy with tourists and traffic, but a lot of fine views down to the fjord and it's cruise ships.

我和米克在午夜的漆黑山路边碰头，这是我们能从各自居所乘坐大巴赶来集合的最佳时间了。我们在距离一个停车场不远的岩石背后凑合睡了一发，然后开始执行我们的计划。先顺路溜到Geiranger这个海滨城市（严格执行计划，其实这个大城市并非完全“必要”的）。Geiranger是个观光客集散地，我们闲逛了一会儿，买了点零食，回山上咯，走你！从Geiranger一路上山，经过昨夜的营地，到达Dalsnibba，从海平面爬升了1500米高度，22公里蜿蜒的柏油山路，平均比降达到了10%，路上充斥着观光大巴，但是好在能清晰的看到挪威特有的峡湾地貌，以及海上游弋的船只。

The summit of Dalsnibba was crazy busy with tourists, and the mean wind cut through our sweat-soaked layers. We pulled on rain jackets and gloves and dived off the hillside. We descended for almost 80km to the town of Lom. There we stocked up with dinner, breakfast and coffee, and rode off along the valley to the south. We rode along the banks of the Bøvra river, until we eventually we found a secluded spot. Sheltered from the road by a thick stand of bushes we found a wide gravel bar. A layer of dry sand and moss made for an exquisite tent pitch, while Mikkel deployed a bed roll made up of not much more than a bivy bag and a whole bunch of tough.

Dalsnibba 的山口上游人如织，冰冷的海风灌进汗水湿透的衣服，赶紧穿上雨衣，戴上手套，开始沿着山壁俯冲，一直冲到80公里开外的Lom小镇。我们在这里采购了当日的晚餐，次日的早餐以及咖啡，然后沿着山谷向南骑，然后沿着Bøvra河岸，直到我们寻得一处清净所在，一条宽阔的小河滩，茂密的灌木丛路边延伸出来，还能遮风挡雨，苔藓层之下是干燥的沙土，打地丁很轻松。米克很彪悍，就靠着一条比露营袋厚不了多少的自制小被子过夜。

汗血宝熊

Day 2. Today was going to be a double header. Not just Norway, but the whole of northern Europe's, highest road in the morning, followed by Norway's third highest road in the evening. Rolling along the valley floor in the sunshine I felt pretty good.

When we turned left onto Raubergstulsvegen, I swiftly stopped feeling pretty good. This is the road tourists in cars use to access Galhødpiggen, Norway's highest mountain, and also the small ski centre at Juvasshytta.

Brutally steep in places, it is also relentless. Already I was having to mix in liberal helpings of #bikepushing to counter my heavily-laden bike and weakness. The weather threw us a curveball halfway up, dishing up a rain shower that had us scrambling for our rain jackets and then gusts of wind that briefly stole Mikkel's helmet while he was preoccupied with layering up.

第二天：今天将会是个双重挑战日。

上午面临的不仅仅是挪威的，也是整个北欧最高的山路，下午到晚上紧跟着是挪威第三高的山路。开始沿着河谷一路踩踏，阳光拂面，说不出的舒爽，当我们在Raubergstulsvegen左转后，舒爽的时光骤逝，这条路横空出世，自驾游客常取道于此前往Galhodpiggen-挪威的最高山峰（弹幕：如果有哪位高人懂挪威语，麻烦帮忙翻译地名为中文吧，这些字母打的我手抽），在Juvasshytta也坐落着一座小型滑雪场。

变态的坡度...还是接连不断的爬升...虽然弱爆，但我并非跟自己过不去，该推车时就推车，自我安慰一下，我的行李毕竟要重些。半道上，天气骤变，暴雨突至，我们穿着雨衣奋力攀爬，苦不堪言。老米停车加衣服的时候，一阵风差点把他的头盔给刮跑。

At the summit we called into the virtually deserted restaurant at the ski centre. We recharged our bodies with cake and hot coffee while surreptitiously recharging our electronics under the table. When my heart rate had lowered back to something resembling normal, we suited up and began the charge down to the valley floor.

We stopped several times to play photographic-leap-frog, which slowed our descent considerably, but that was a seriously epic road descent. Panoramic views, dubious surface quality and non-existent road markings or railings made for a thrilling, white-knuckle ride. It just went on forever. Corner after corner, interspersed with straight line bombing. My neck, fingers and smiling muscles ached, unused to descents that lasted half an hour.

当到达山顶的时候，我们造访了滑雪场几乎荒废了的小餐馆（夏季了，滑雪场没人才是正常吧？），饱食蛋糕，狂饮咖啡来补充能量，顺道给随身用电器也充充电。等到心率恢复如常，我们立马穿戴齐整，冲向谷底。我们中途停下来，拍了些“一二三跳”的照片，拖延了不少时间，不过话说，真是一段超赞的下山路--无死角的景观视觉，时好时坏的路面，没有警告标示，没有路边护栏，惊险刺激，差点吓尿。急弯连着急弯，永坠不休，间或一段直线坑爹路。下山路仅仅持续了不到半小时，脖子手指僵疼，连带着表情都是僵硬的（尼玛冲太快了吧？）。

When we had got the feeling back in our seized braking fingers at the bottom, we turned our attention towards Blåhø, Norway's third highest road. We pedalled the 20km back to Lom on a mix of quiet country roads and gravel, stocked up on snacks again and set off.

等待捏刹车到抽筋的手指恢复知觉，我们立马奔向Blåhø---挪威第三高路。我们沿着一条砂石间或铺装的寂静乡村路回骑20公里到达Lom，采购一些食品后继续进发。

A further 30km of mixed surface riding brought us to the grocery store at the base of the mountain. It was gone 8p.m. as we set off, but Norway's northern latitude and generous daylight in summer meant running out of light wasn't a huge concern. The ascent of Blåhø was far less difficult for me because, not only was it almost entirely on gravel, but most of the steep stuff was completed inside the first 5km.I had caught my second wind, meaning I actually rode my bike most of the time. We summited at around 22.45, the road ending abruptly at a metal door, leading into the James Bond villain's lair-esque building at the top. Once again we suited up, ran around taking photos and shovelled snacks into our now relentless metabolisms.

又骑了30公里混合路面后，到达山下的杂货店。此时已近下午八点，但夏季是北极圈内挪威的极昼时节，基本不存在摸黑夜行的问题。Blåhø的上坡路段，远没有意料之中的困难，不仅是因为全程砂石路的乐趣，更重要的是陡峭的部分已尖灭于最初的5公里路段，我总算是骑顺了，全程都是骑上去的而没有推车。晚上22:45，我们总算到达了山路之巅，道路意外终结于一扇金属门，通向山顶的类似詹姆士邦德电影里那种庄园基地。加件衣服，我们一边闲逛拍照，一边狼吞虎咽吃零食，应付剧烈的新陈代谢。

I'm calling that gravel road descent almost definitely well after sunset and probably a whisker before full darkness. Tiredness had me letting go of the brakes quite a bit more than my wide awake persona would, especially on the more open top section. My loaded bike slewing through a few corners as I just let things go for a while. Towards the bottom, as things started to steepen and darken in equal proportion, I clung to the brake levers more. As the stench of overheating disc brake pads faded, we pedalled off along the valley road, into the night. We crawled off the road onto a forest track and camped right there, in the middle of the path, and in the middle of an ant highway. We didn't care.

下山的砂石路，是在日落之后，离漆黑只差毫厘之间完成的。剧烈的疲劳让我恍惚了好一阵，甚至在比较开阔的山顶路段，我都忘记了捏刹车，我沉重的单车在几个拐角处无意识地迅速切弯而过，而正常情况下，我是不会那么冒失的。快到山脚的时候，道路变陡，视觉变暗，我才开始多捏刹车了。直到碟片过热，来令片剧烈磨损而发出异味，我们才在乡村道边停下来，准备过夜，几乎是从路边爬行到森林边儿上，在林道正中间扎下帐篷休息，未曾想还挡住蚂蚁大军行进大道，但我们毫没在意。

Mikkel had pencilled Day 3 in as a kind of transfer day, 130km and only one 700m climb of note. The sun shone in the morning and our brief dalliance of with the traffic on the E6 highway only produced one asshole driver, who's several seconds saved by not slowing down or giving us any room on the side of the road was apparently far more important than our safety. We dived off the highway and Mikkel started down an overgrown lane, pushing his bike past barriers that clearly conveyed that the road ahead was closed. Arcing across the river was a wooden bridge. The faded road sign next to hit, partially hidden by head high grass, touted it's weight limit at 6 tonnes. I could totally believe it, if this bridge has been maintained in the last, what, decade?! We really didn't have much choice about crossing it, unless we fancied duking it out with more dicks in their German cars on the highway. I walked closer and touched the guardrail. The entire structure almost fell off the side of the bridge. Every part I touched the wood powdered under my finger's light pressure. Mikkel went first and made it across with no problem. I was just about done forcing down my fear of the bridge collapsing under the weight of my bike and steeled myself to cross, when Mikkel forced me to wait a little longer while he got his camera out. Cheers, buddy!

按照米克的计划，第三日为“调休日”，计划中只有130公里行程，只有700米的爬升。清晨阳光美好，但我们与E6公路的情缘很快被一个混蛋司机给搅和了，这家伙好几次与我们并行，不断挤压我们的安全空间--这对骑行者来说是非常重要的安全因素。我们迅速驶离公路，走上一条杂草丛生的小道，米克带车翻过围栏，发现道路似乎封闭了。一座木桥跨河而立，破落的路标在一人多高的杂草中若隐若现，貌似说这桥限重6吨。我几乎完全相信眼前的一切，这桥看似有数十年没有维护过了。但我们貌似并没有更好的选择，除非我们能干掉那个公路上开着德国车的混蛋。我走近木桥，摇晃下护栏，整个组件几乎都掉了下来，轻捏了下木质部分，腐朽程度不低。米克首先通过木桥，没有任何问题。我好不容易克服了恐惧--生怕桥面受不了我的重量而坍塌，坚定信心过桥，期间米克又非要让我停下稍候，来一发照片。兄弟，说茄子！

汗血宝熊

Once across the bridge Mikkel had stitched together a route of gravel roads and quiet country lanes to get us further west, towards the mountains of Dovre to the north and Rondane to the south. We stopped at a grocery store for our now well rehearsed restocking routine, taking it in turns to sit outside and guard the bikes while the companion raided the store for snacks. We saddled up and began the hour-long slog up towards Grimsdalen. The country really opened up here. The suffocating summer meadows of the valley gave way to swathes of stubby white birch trees, then the open tundra of the mountain plateau. Mikkel had once again put me in the hurt house on the way up, but graciously waited for me at the top. What transpired next was perhaps the greatest 40km of riding I have ever experienced. From the stunning views along Grimsdalmyrene, to the vistas south, towards Rondeslottet and the other barren peaks above 2000m. The surface was the finest gravel you could imagine, compacted and buffed to an amazing degree, with only the odd pothole to keep you wide awake and one eye on the road while you marvel at the scenery. The road just keeps descending, twisting and turning through the deepening valley until it spills out near the tourist cabin at Grimsdalhytta. Here the dirt road continues, west, across more open land. Mikkel has been shooting many photos in the opposite direction of our travel, and with good reason. Behind us the sky is dramatic and darkening rapidly. The forecasted rain is rapidly gaining on us.

flyme1234

汗血宝熊 发表于 2017-3-31 12:52
甫过桥，米克已经锁定了一条安静的乡间碎石小路，一路向西，通达北方的Dovre山脉和南方的Rondane山脉之间。按照原计划，我们在一家食品杂货店停下来，轮流进店采购干粮。准备妥当后，我们又开始了一小时的艰难爬升，直指Grimsdalen山顶，至此乡村风景方显壮丽，山谷中美得窒息的夏季牧场散布着大片粗短的白桦林，而后是高原山脉的宽阔苔原。米克在爬升中再一次拉爆了我，继而优雅的在山顶等候。接下来是前所未有的，长达40公里的舒爽体验。一条梦幻般的，完美压实的碎石路，沿着Grimsdalen山蜿蜒南下，通向Rondeslottet以及其它2000米以上的山峰，一路美景连连，偶尔出现的坑洼才让你从陶醉中惊醒。路一直盘旋坠入山谷，直到Grimsdalhytta的旅行者小木屋。从这里开始，土路持续向西，越过更多宽广原野，米克不断回头拍摄我们来时之路，以滋回味。天空在我们后方戏剧性地迅速转暗，一场大雨在所难免。

汗血宝熊

flyme1234 发表于 2018-4-12 11:08

感谢兄弟的支持，翻译得很棒！

hollylzd

居然考古到这里……

挪威居然有蛇……

突然想去

bike5p

老外们的这些Bikepacking网站，图片拍的真是漂亮。欣赏那些图片已经很过瘾了……何况他们介绍的那些穿越线路，骑车遇到的人和事更是蛊惑人心。